A Trip to Sicily: Scicli and Ragusa

Scicli is the lesser known town of the UNESCO-listed late Baroque towns in the southeast part of Sicily. Unlike Noto or Ragusa, it is relatively unknown to most tourists. However, it has made the most dramatic impression on us among all the beautiful towns.  

Scicli has the natural advantage of its dramatic setting. Located in the valleys divided by the steep ridges, part of the town is literally carved into the steep ridges, with grand churches, piazzas and villas.

After a drive through the winding roads, the breathtaking beauty of Scicli was unveiled as soon as entering the town. We found ourselves at the narrow entrance of the town, guarded by the magnificent church San Bartonomeo. The church bell started striking the moment at our arrival. I guess that the bell also added the dramatic effect on us. But I’m convinced that it is the beauty of Scicli that has moved us to our core.  To this day, I still can’t put the exact words on our feelings at that moment, almost like a shock, and no photo would do the justice it deserves.

There are many Baroque monuments to visit. The old town is organized around two main piazzas: Piazza Italia and Piazza Busacca. Piazza Italia is the business-like heart of Scicli; a long square lined with elegant palaces and nice stores. Cars were cruising by and locals gathering and chatting under the warm winter sun.

Piazza Busacca is the social center of Scicli. There are many bars and restaurants around the piazza, and it is a great place to sit at the tables outside, and to have a coffee or a glass of wine, watching the life unfold in front of you.

One of the most stunning palaces in Scicli is Palazzo Beneventano, on Via Duca d'Aosta, close to Piazza Italia and Via Penna . This is a quite elaborate Baroque building, featuring leering faces, monstrous beasts and other decorative figures.

But the most memorable moments came from the gorgeous views of the town from the abandoned San Matteo Church, which requires a hike among the zig zag streets. The Church itself is also magnificent. Sitting on a commending position on top of the hill overlooking the valleys below, most of its Baroque facade, grand structure and the beautiful terrace is still in tact. However, all it left is just a beautiful shell. Birds find shelter inside, and some trash lying around the beautiful marble floor. It is very hard to understand why such a Baroque wonder is abandoned. A shame really.

Our lingering sad feelings for San Matteo was lightened on our way down to the town. Wandering in the small alleys, we discovered elegantly restored villas, artist studios, and cozy neighborhood restaurants. Our mood was further lifted when we had the best arancini of the trip for only €1.5. Scicli has so much more than its Baroque past to offer and is well worth another longer visit.

Ragusa is one of the most picturesque towns in Sicily. There are two parts of the town: Ibla (or Ragusa Ibla), the older side on a hilltop, and Ragusa Superiore, the more modern upper town. Ragusa Ibla is the main draw for tourists, though the upper town also has its fair share of picturesque lanes, cafes, and restaurants. The best reason to pay the upper town a visit, however, is for the stunning view over Ragusa Ibla.

Ragusa is visibly more touristy than Scicli and there are some British and German pubs along the main streets in the Ibla. However, unlike Taormina, wandering; meandering along the character-filled lanes of Ragusa Ibla still feels distinctly Sicilian. The ancient sandstone villas are sun-baked, with faded stucco facade, sometimes cracked. They may not look polished and manicured, but breathtakingly beautiful and authentic nevertheless.

Rugusa is also home of many well-known restaurants, some of them Michelin-starred. We had our lunch at the 2-star Restaurant Duomo in Ibla, by the beautiful Duoma. The restaurant is exquisitely decorated and the cuisine is inspired by Sicilian tradition. Both the restaurant and the food are very sophisticated. We had the lunch tasting menu with wine pairing ( €59 per person). It is more than worth the money.