A Trip to Sicily: Aci Castello
We didn’t have any plans to visit Aci Castello, a seaside town about 10km north of Catania. The truth is that we never heard of it.
It was our Sicilian friend Mario suggested that we should meet at Aci Castello for dinner. Apparently it has some of the best restaurants in Sicily. As soon as we did a google search, a visit to Aci Castello became a must.
The town sits over a picturesque gulf, with clear turquoise waters of the sea against ridges of lava stone. Castello Normanno (Norman Castle), situated on the top the black lava ridge, gives the town its name. Acitrezza, a small fishing village in Aci Castello, is famous for its eight striking faraglioni (volcanic stacks).
Such scenery inspires writers and artists through the centuries. In Homer’s Odyssey, Acitrezza is the land of the Cyclops who hurled these volcanic stacks at the vessels of Ulysses.
Our friend Mario and his wife told us that Acitrezza also holds a significant place in the Italian literature. It is the backdrop of I Malavoglia (The House by the Medlar-Tree), the best known novel by the great Italian Verismo (Realist) writer Giovanni Verga.
Despite the famous references, Aci Castello is a fishermen’s port at heart. The town has a very strong community feel. It seemed even more so when we visited with no other tourists in sight. Everyone appeared to know everyone; people gathered around chatting after a church service; children ran around on the street playing. We could almost feel the simple, unpretentious and beautiful way of life.
Aci Castello is also home of some of the best restaurants in Sicily. Given the location, many people in Catania area come here to eat on a regular basis. We had our dinner at La Muse Ristorante Pizzeria (Via Provinciale, Aci Castello; 39 095 277089) and it was fantastic. It is a family owned restaurant with the same owner as Trattoria Verga da Gaetano across the street.
Our starter was raw sea urchin and steamed mixed shell fish. The raw sea urchin was divine. Our pasta dish was linguine with sea urchins. The pasta was cooked perfectly al dente, and the sauce was light and silky with the distinct subtle flavor of sea urchin. Our main course was grilled whole fish, which was extremely fresh and tender. What a great meal!
