A Short Visit to Germany

Frankfurt was not on our destination list. It was heavily bombed during the World War II and almost all the old European city charm is gone. What it has become is a clean and new financial center with beautiful riverbanks and Germany’s main airport. Not particularly interesting, really. However, an opportunity of a visit came along and we figured that it won’t hurt to have a quick visit.

Although Frankfurt didn’t blow our mind away, it is definitely a nice and very livable city. The public transit is great; there is very little traffic; the city is very organized and very clean; people are very friendly and open-minded. It is a city worth a short visit. The old part of Frankfurt is fairly small. The biggest draws to tourists are the Frankfurt Cathedral, a Roman Catholic Gothic church and Kleinmarkthalle, a market hall with 60+ vendors selling a variety of groceries, plus flowers, wine & prepared foods. 

I found that the more interesting part of the city center is the part closer to the Main River, which is lively with newly built apartment buildings, cafes, restaurants and trendy boutiques.

We had our dinner at one of the Michelin recommended restaurants Biancalani and it was superb. The interior of the restaurant is beautiful and the cuisine is innovative southern Italian. The menu is kind of tasting menu, and the dishes are not in big portions, but the flavors are rich. The pricing is interesting: if you order less than 5 dishes (per person), it is €15 per dish; if you order 5 dishes, it is €70 in total and any more dishes will cost €10 each. It is not a cheap restaurant for sure, but the flavors are so rich, we found ourselves full after 3 dishes each. The standouts were artichoke stew, sardines three ways, seared sea bass fillet, and slow cooked pork belly.

The best part of our visit in Frankfurt is the Frankfurt Botanical Garden. The garden sweeps across 22 hectares, where plant species from all parts of the world are displayed in greenhouses or the open air. The garden is very well taken care of and very peaceful to take a stroll.

An hour train ride from Frankfurt lays the picturesque university town Heidelberg. Heidelberg is the most famous university towns in Germany and one of the few towns in Germany that was not bombed in the World War II.  The old town of Heidelberg Altstadt is well preserved with the narrow cobble stone streets and the charming pastel colored buildings. The trace of the painful memory of the World War II, however, can still be found in the Nazi-destroyed synagogue site and the metal name plates on the sidewalks in front of the houses where Jews were taken from and sent to concentration camps. They are the reminders of one of the darkest time in human history that we shall never forget.   

Heidelberg has become a magnet for tourists, especially Asian tourists over the years. Even in early spring, not a high tourist season, the old town was still filled with bus-loads of tourists. Luckily, Heidelberg is not completely overrun by the tourists and there are still some authentic cafes and bars left in the old town. Vetters Brauhaus is clearly one of the local’s favorite given how busy it always is. Its draft beers are delicious and the atmosphere is very casual. It is a perfect place to meet with friends and have a couple of beers. If you also want to eat though, a reservation is definitely needed!

The most famous site in Heidelberg is the spectacular Heidelberg Castle. The castle ruins are among the most important Renaissance structures north of the Alps, and only part of the ruins has been rebuilt. Although the castle never regained its original glory, the ruins have the ragged charm of their own. The empty window arches, the intensively carved facades, and the mounting towers, all deserted, stand quietly, still royal, and beautiful. The best time to visit the castle is early in the morning, before the arrival of the tour buses. The park surrounding the castle is well maintained and free of entry; and the terrace gives you the best view of the castle and the old town.

Free of the tourist frenzy, the Philosophers’ walk runs along the side of Heilingenberg (Saints’ Mountain) across the Neckar from the old town of Heidelberg. The walk got the name from the tradition that Heidelberg’s philosophers and university professors would walk and talk along the pathway, and the scenic views of the old town, the castle and the surrounding forest would be the perfect backdrop for inspiring conversations.  

At the bottom of the philosophers’ walk is Neuenheim, a charming and live neighborhood filled with university students. Neuenheim was an old village first mentioned in the 8th century and became part of Heidelberg in the late 19th century. The neighborhood still feels like a cozy village with cobblestone streets lined with cottages and villas. It is also a great place to mixed in with the local crowds in its many German pubs and restaurants.

Heidelberg may be a tourist destination, but it definitely has more than one face and identity of Heidelberg. It has so much history, intellect, and scenery to offer and is worth another visit.

Where to eat

Biancalani, Walther-von-Cronberg-Platz 9, 60594 Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Vetters Brauhaus, Steingasse 9, 69117 Heidelberg, Germany

Bar Centrale, Ladenburger Str. 17, 69120 Heidelberg, Germany . It is one of the oldest bars in Heidelberg. Elegant and down to earth. Good food and even better beer.

Kulturbrauerei Heidelberg, Leyergasse 6, 69117 Heidelberg, Germany . It is a beer hall, which is not typical for this region, but it is by no means the reason not to have a drink here. Great ambiance!

Ristorante Piccolo Mondo, Klingenteichstraße 6, 69117 Heidelberg, Germany. Michelin recommended.. Very good Italian food.